Saturday 5 July 2014

Marrakech Medina

Another medina, another riad ... "Riad Bamaga". This one was even better than the one in Essauoira! Once again we had no idea how to find it and had to pay for someone to take us to a carpark and then the riad. Luckily we left our bags in the car and didn't pay for the carpark as there was one much closer to where we were staying.
The past two days have been eventful. Day one, after arriving and settling in we used the manager's map to find our way around the medina. Not an easy task as this medina is much bigger and his map skills (maybe more his English directions) were hard to follow. The square provided a little entertainment for Tony, snake charming, while I had some henna done. Not a nice experience as she wanted 450Dh and I only had 220 in my wallet so that's all she got. I have learned that I must agree on a price before they even touch me. Four o'clock is now our official beer o'clock so after a couple of beers, and a plate of olives for me, we decided on an earlier dinner & back to the riad.
Day two I wish I had worn my pedometer. We set out after breakfast, heading towards the museum but ending up at the tannery instead. Leather goods are made from goat and sheep by the Arabs, and camel and cow by the Berber. Very interesting that the Berber only come into the medina for 3 days a week to work and the Arabs are there all week. The leather is a beautiful quality and if we weren't travelling we probably would have invested in some Berber goods. Next stop was the Jewish precinct in the south end of the medina. Unfortunately the cemetery was closed so we walked on towards the Royal Palace and Gardens. Strictly no photos were to be taken of the entrance and the guard - didn't know this at the time though. Kasbah Cafe is now officially the BEST cafe I have been to. They gave me a tall glass of hot milk and a little jug of coffee so I could pour my own - now that's service! We had a wander through the Tombeaux Saadiens, which date back to 1578, were discovered in the early 1900s and restored. There are 60 Saadien tombs in the mausoleum, including that of el Mansour, the 16th century sultan.
Did the obligatory bus tour around the outside of the medina where all the modern hotels, shops and restaurants can be found and then returned to the riad, our quiet little sanctuary. Entertainment of the day was the theft of two soda bottles from outside a kioshk we were buying water from. The teenage boys snatched the bottles and took off (walking fast because it's Ramadan). The man in the next shop took off after them, alerting others who also took chase. By the time we walked past there was a crowd providing their local justice to these boys. When I asked a woman how much the bottle was worth she said 2 Dh, was it worth all the hassle?
Which direction shall we take? Right of course!
Our room - with air con.

Wi-fi only in the lounge upsatirs - our new
4'clock office
View from the office into the garden

The snake charmer - kept my distance
Henna bling should last 3 months
Marrakech Bus Tours
Tony at the OJ stands in the square
One of the bab (gates) into the medina

The Railway Station

Plenty of baby camels - not for riding though

The old medina wall is 9km

Yes! There is a Zara in Marrakech

The tombeaux saadiens.

Sultan El mansour's tomb

A Berber shaving the leather by hand. The Arab's
use a machine.

The Berber leather is limed, pigeon pooed, and
covered in mimosa before it is shaved and dyed.
Whole process takes more than 9 months. These
hides  have been smothered in mimosa and left to
dry for 3 months to get rid of the smell.


Outside the royal palace. The guards are behind the tree.
Single shot latte in a tall glass xxx

The BEST place for latte.



















Last night we decided to eat at the square and were surprised at how busy it was - found restaurant 1 and had a great meal! The medina is so different at night. Vibrant and alive after fast is broken.
Our final day in the medina started early. We walked over 10 km, enjoying most of it until we got a little lost at the end of the day. We managed to find our way home to the riad though. The sun was pretty hot today and I think we got a little burnt. The day included a bus tour around the outskirts of the city, visiting a couple of palaces, a museum and a madrasa (islamic school) which is now closed but open for the public to view. I've picked just a few photos for today. I'm looking forward to a quiet dinner tonight at the riad and an early night. 
Last nights dinner at the square - salad,
squid and beef with couscous

The obligatory photo

The square at night is empty during the day

Fireplace surround in the Palais Bahia (I think)

Un hotel du golf with a golf course attached

Camel riding opportunities were everywhere

We found MacDonalds

The architecture is wonderful - the musee was well worth the price

I found a poncho for Phonz.

I also found Tony hiding behind a pillar

and at the end of the day I found a place to put my feet :-)

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